![]() Generally speaking newer SSDs made by well-known manufacturers will have a secure erase method. Not all SSDs have a mechanism to do this, at least not if you go back several years. The best and most reliable way to destroy the data is to physically destroy the disk to the point where recovery would be impossible (or very nearly impossible).īeyond that the recommended method is to use whatever mechanism the manufacturer has built in to perform a secure erase. You have no guarantee and a pretty fair amount of certainty that there will be certain memory blocks that will not get touched during that process. This is why using a tool like DBAN to just zero everything out over and over again doesn't destroy things in the same way on an SSD. The controller itself keeps track of which memory blocks are being used and wear levels. SSDs intentionally do not write over and over to the same memory cells and blocks because they have a limited number of writes. Obviously though you then lose the drive. So you're best off doing a combination of both of these methods.Īlternately, just get the damn thing shredded. ![]() Kinda sucks when you find a cheap ebay knockoff SSD installed by the last guy, that now needs destruction. ![]() But again, you don't have visibility here, so you have no idea if the drive is actually doing whatever the fuck you tell it to. It's better to send the ATA command Secure Erase Unit or the NVMe command Format NVM to the device and let it either replace it's encryption key (fast), or purge all it's cells if it's not self-encrypted (slower). So even if you "fill" the drive with random 1s and 0s, you still don't touch that extra space, and don't really have visibility to be sure. Change something, it can actually saves the new data in the unallocated area, then flip the pointer. SSD's actually have a little extra storage space they don't make visible to the OS for changes.
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